The Essence of Big Sur

Ironically, I find myself back in Big Sur this weekend. My first road trip after moving to CA took me through Big Sur in November 2006.

From my private jacuzzi on my back porch at my room (one of the new Pacific Rooms) at Ventana Inn & Spa, I can see miles of staggeringly beautiful coastline and ocean cliffs. Here I feel peace. Here I see truth. Here I can eat amazing truffle pasta hand-made by Chef Dory Ford, and sip wine to my hearts delight in the clothing-optional Japanese Hot Baths. Here I can have my body wrapped in grapes and be massaged until my heart aches no more. And here I can hike through the forest and see the famous Circle of Redwoods at Ventana and know that there is good in the world.

Apologizes to Quito

It's been way too long since my last post. Many fabulous trips have come and gone and while the memories will always remain, I have neglected to give them their proper attention. So Mr. Quito, please accept my apologies. If it wasn't for Mr. Mansour and the lovely Veronica--who met at my Tastefully Simple party in 2006--I wouldn't have even visited you!

The hike to your 12,000 ft volcano was amazing. I really enjoyed sipping your cocoa tea (which I managed to smuggle back into the USA), and I was able to capture that John Jones "Ofoto Moment" on the Equator. But I must be honest, you could have warned me about the Otavalo Market. I mean, really? The market by the Hilton was a million times better and I wasn't confined to a 6 hour bus trip. Storm tropping three malls with two attorneies looking for the perfect Tribu purse took less time. Yes. really.

Sincerely Yours,
Mrs. Jones

Post Holiday Thoughts

While my tan may be fading in this Southern California "June Gloom", the memories of my recent South East Asia tour never will. It really was an amazing trip. I am very lucky to be able to travel the way I do. The private islands, speed boats, luxe vehicles, butlers are just the icing on the cake. I really am experiencing a slice of life that few do.

So, what are my thoughts on Travel? Thailand? Singapore? Life?

I do recommend that everyone travel as much as they can. It is my passion to travel and EXPERIENCE as many cultures as I can. There is something to be said about a well-traveled person. After you do the Rome-Venice-Florence-Paris-Madrid, go off and experience some untouched places. Places that are still raw and free of tourism and the commercialization that comes with tourism.

Thailand was amazingly beautiful. It was a bit more commercialized than I expected. It was a far cry from the unspoiled beauty I experienced last year in Vietnam. None the less, it was amazingly beautiful and the people were very kind and welcoming.

Singapore was expensive! And it really wasn't that pretty (I think that is how Bill's ex-wife described me the first time she met me...) Singapore is the Long Beach of islands. The beaches were not really swimmable (is that a word?) and everywhere you looked--on all sides of the island there were large oil tankers, cargo ships, containers, cranes--Singapore is a major port, afterall. The shopping was plentiful, but even as the locals told me, they all go to Bangkok to shop as it's much less expensive.

And one final note, Singapore Air is not all it's cracked up to be. I was not impressed. Save some money and fly Cathay Pacific....now there is an impressive airline!

4,3,2,1

The day that we all regret--the last day of holiday....sweet sorrow. Over the past 12 days, I have experienced four (4) fabulously luxurious resorts, three (3) remote islands, two (2) amazing countries, and one (1) wonderful holiday! (don't forget the three days of travel time as part of the adventure too!) I've tried new foods, learned new words, bought new shoes (ha!) and absorbed culture. (And....I totally put my workout/eating schedule to the side as well--will feel that 5am Monday morning!)

This evening started out with a luge ride. A ski lift--which I find terribly ironic on this island off the coast of an island--took us on a "sky ride" to the top of the mountain where we were fitted with helmets (yes, child size for my peanut sized head). It was fun, but I disagree with the marketing for this attraction "One time isn't enough." One time was well enough!

Dinner and $12 beers were at the Siloso beach bar, Cafe Del Mar. For those of you not familiar (that's you Erik) Cafe del Mar is a music collection by Jose Padilla--straight from Ibiza (I believe?) Chill, lounge music, mixed by the best DJs around the world.....but I digress....Apparently there was a private party tonight, so we were told we had to leave by 9:30. At 9pm a girl came on the stage and started singing with the mixes--she was terrible. I think they purposedly put her up there to sing and clear out the place!

9:40am flight--land at LAX at 1pm. Wishful thinking that the flight will only be 3 hours, 20 minutes. I'd like to forget about the 15 hour time change.

I hope you all enjoyed reading my posts. I enjoyed sharing my experiences and getting all my thoughts down as they happened. If you plan on taking holiday in Western Thailand or Singpore--give me a shout. I'll share more:)

Until my next gallivant...

AC

Shoes and durian fruit: Love and hate

Our last full day in Singapore. There have been quite a few things I have fallen in love with: Charles & Keith shoes, Kaya (a spread made with pandan leaves and egg yolks), and Capella. (Capella, where we are staying) is the new six star hotel that opened less than 60 days ago. ) There are a few things that I don't care for so much: Jack Fruit, $12.50 beers, and Durian Fruit (the most repulsive thing I have ever ate--yes, even after Sea Urchin).

I feel like we've been in SIN a lot longer than we were in Thailand, but it was actually the opposite. Today was Shopping Day. We headed out to the famous Orchard Road to get a real taste of shopping in Singapore during the Great Singapore Sale. The malls, one on every block and five alone on Orchard Road, are quite organized. By organized, I mean that store location is dictated by price. The top and basement levels are always food courts. After that, the lowest level is "budget" (GAP) and the highest level is "designer" (CHANEL). Erik and I stayed on the lower levels as they tended to have the actual Singaporean stores and stuff we can't get back home.

Many hours were spent in Charles & Keith today--to Erik's delight (joking). But three pairs of shoes later, I am quite happy and decided the chaos of the place was worth it. The store is a mad house--all the time, but I swear it is the most popular store in SIN.

Local foods 101

Finally was able to experience some of the many "local foods" of Singapore this afternoon: Ice Kacang/Chendol (shaved ice with red beans, ground palm sugar, and coconut milk), Fried Hokkien Mee (fried noodles with prawn)...and of course Durian Fruit.

Never did have a chance to try chili crab, Ba Kut Teh (pork ribs), Nasi Lemak (rice and coconut).

Drinking from a bloodbag--is this DisneyLand?

I'm excited to see what the last full day in Singapore will bring! Looking forward to buying shoes, dresses, and clothes...not so much the $12.50 beers. This place is very expensive! Everything is ridiculously priced....except taxi rides. We went back to Clarke Quay last evening after learning that TEENAGERS would be at Zouk NightClub....ugh! Clarke Quay was not exactly our speed either. Too many tourists, and young Asian women looking for, well, Erik types. White rich men. BLAH! We had one beer, a 10 oz Carlsberg, at a CHEESEY bar called CLINIC. The chairs were wheelchairs and the mixed drinks were served in blood bags and you sipped it through an IV. I refused to do this..but did get a quick pic to show how sick it really was!

There is no sea access from this island

I am staying at a new 6 star property, Capella Singapore. It opened less than two months ago and is absolutely amazing. I'm sitting in the lap f luxury, yet it feels like Alcatrez. And my ATL friends, I am not referring to Miggie and Smoochie's old apt.

Singapore is an island. Off off this island of Singapore is another island, Sentosa island. That is where I am. The view is of this amazing turquoise water for miles and a few Indonesian island on the far off distance. There are also oil tankers, and construction, and the LongShoreman cranes. Loos like my view as I lay on my home beach of Long Beach. There are "fake islands" off the coastline so the resort beaches are "preserved" from the erosion of waves. I cannot even walk down to teh beach that I can see from my room because itis fenced off. I am n an island, but cannot swim in the sea. Anyone else find this ironic?

3am sleep or party. Police.

We had a plan last night. We really did. The plan was to go to Vivo City, eat some local Singaporean food in the food court, get a cab to Geylang--the Red Light District--buy durian fruit (stinky fruit) and take it from there. None of that happened.

We ended up at a German (how ironic, right?!) bar, Brotzeit, where two guys--an Aussie and a Brit started chatting us up. They bought us a drink and then invited us to a Latino Club across the street. St James Power Station was lame with about 5 locals trying there darnest to get their groove on. Matt and Paul then invited us to go dancing at Club 72--the top floor of the Swissotel. Sure, why the hell not! Before we knew it, it was 3am.

Advertising

As a habit, I always "tune into" advertising when I travel. I love seeing the creativity (or lack of at times) and the way marketers everywhere grab attention. The advertising here in Singapore is hilarious. Everywhere you look, there are these crazy characters telling you to " Don't Play Play, Wait for me to come out" (On the subway). At the food courts--signs remind you to clean up your tray with "Goodness Gracious Me! This Mess is Not OK" I'll have a whole section of photos dedicated to these crazy, certainly attention grabbing ads.

Singapore =shoppping, and more shopping and more shopping

My legs are killing me... We literally walked all of Singapore today. Started at the infamous Merlion (my Halloween costume this year for sure!) and then headed to the Mandarin Oriental for lunch at Dolce Vita. Chef Marco was delighted to speak Italian with me :) Then it was off to Haji Lane in the Malay part of town to see the Muslim Sultan Mosque. Then we headed to India Town for more culture. We stopped at the Fountain of Wealth, put our right hand in the water and walked three times around. Let's hope my silent wish comes true!

There are shopping malls--LARGE shopping malls on every corner here. I am a bit overwhelmed. And starting two days ago, the Great Singapore Sale is happening. I'm in heaven! One pair of shoes down, looking for a smashing dress now.

Party all the time

We are now in Singapore! After checking into the Rasa Sentosa Hotel--which I don't recommend, but then again, I've become quite the hotel snob, we headed into town to check out Clarke Quay (pronounced "key") Wednesday night looked like Friday night--people partying it up, clubs with lines a mile long, and bands playing in pubs. We were quite tired so we only lasted until about 12:30am at The Pump Room and The Crazy Elephant.

12am sleep or party Police

Five days on two private islands and I still have yet to take a swim in the sea....is this what happens when you live 4 blocks from the beach year around? Well, it rained all morning and our excursion to Phi Phi Island was cancelled. Yep, we flew half way around the world to see Phi Phi Island...and no Phi Phi Island. Damn!

Erik and I went into the touristy town of Ao Nang for some shopping. Ao Nang reminded me of Nha Trang Vietnam very much. Then we headed to the local hang out of Krabi Town. The weather here is disgustingly hot and steamy. My curly hair is not happy. We ended up finding this "very popular brand" of clothing called POLICE. The shirts have sayings on them that are in English and make no sense. For example, my shirt says: "12am sleep or party Police." Erik's says: "08:41am working time has started Police." We cannot wait to wear them everywhere!

Koa neaw ma mung....found!

I finally was able to experience the infamous (as it has become!) dessert. And you are begging to know what I thought? It was OK. Not mind-blowing, but just OK.

Arriving to Rayavadee Island via a John Deere

To get from one private island to another, one would think you’d take a boat. Nope! You take a vehicle two hours, a speed boat 25 minutes, then a John Deere for 5 minutes. It’s low tide and the arrival beach at Rayavadee is a muddy mess! The speed boat stops about 100 yards away, a smaller boat fetches you and that smaller boat is tied to a tractor. The tractor takes you onto land. Crazy! 

Our beach villa is amazing. It has a wooden spiral staircase to the second level. It’s like a little condo. And there is TV--two of them. This excites Erik to no end. I am not sure what he is more excited about: the tv or the fact there is meat on this island!

Before dinner, I decide to check out the spa....three massages in one day cannot be that bad! I can give up the limited alcohol, the no meat, but I am not as eager to let the massages go. I decide on the 105 minute “Rayavadee Signature Massage.” The description says “muscle relaxation with a heated herbal pouch.” Sounds similar to the Kra Po Thai Massage to me....oh well, I decided to give it a whirl. 105 minutes of pure heaven. I can really get used to this.


It’s everywhere...but yet it’s nowhere!

I am still in search of the mango sticky rice dessert that I was told is so popular and can be found everywhere. But, I have yet to find it! This “Koa Neaw Ma Mung” is slowing and painfully becoming the Mavi Jean Jacket of this trip.

I am Jasmine Flower...Does that make Erik Aladin?

I started the morning with an egg white fritta and a foot accupressure massage and an energizing massage. Ton, one of the waiters at the restaurant, gave me a bracelet with my Thai name this morning at breakfast. He named me “Mali” which means Jasmine flower. Apparently, these flowers are very important and are used to honor the Buddha. I’m not sure what this means for me...

If I didn’t mention it before, the Six Senses Spa Destination is a wellness spa--the anti-super spa. Everything about this place is healthy....the food is all grown on the island, no meat, and no alcohol. (Well, you can have a glass of organic wine after 6pm with your dinner) After four days of detoxing, eating healthy, and having limited alcohol, I’m ready to the next part of the trip. So off to Rayavadee we go!


Be sure the 7-11 is Buddhist owned!

Started the day with a 90-minute Traditional Pra Kob Thai massage then headed into Phuket City to be a "tourist." Our tour guide, Bam Bam (yes, his real Thai nickname) took us to see the tourists traps of Phuket. Our first stop was Thalong Road where we saw first hand the Sino-Porteguese archtitecture. The buildings on this street are half Chinese (the lower half) and half Portugese (the upper half). We then visited Chalong Temple--the largest Buddist Temple in Phuket. Learned that 60% of Thais are Buddhist, 30% are Muslim, and 10% are mixed Christian, etc. I had to cover my shoulders and legs with a sarong--reminded me of Istanbul. After Chalong Temple we drove up a narrow, winding roads to see a rather new site--the Big Buddha. It's actually still under construction. What is The Big Buddha you ask? Well, it's a big buddha! 45 meter tall and made from 135 tons of Burmese white marble. It overlooks Rawai Beach--not a bad spot to be with bars, restaurants and beautiful beachline. Then we drove over in our little Prius to the Phromthep Cape--apparently the most photographed site in Phuket. (see my pic here) Then on the way back to Naka Island we stopped at a street market--Grand Bazar Instanbul, Part 2...

What words did I learn today....let's see....."thud" is "lady boy." Accordinging to Bam Bam, there are a lot of these lady boys in Phuket. Seems that Phuket is the California of Thailand (aka quite liberal). I also learned what the Thai say when they greet you and bow: "Sawadee." (pronounced saw-waa-dee). So now I walk around saying"Sawadee kha" and bowing ... alot!

At the market Erik and I had our first beer in days. It tasted so good. I think I got buzzed after half the can. In an effort to relive our Duquesne years, we asked our tourguide to stop at the Seven Eleven so we could buy a six pack to sneak back onto the island. Just our luck, the 7-11 was Muslim owned..no beer! Luckily, the stall next door was Buddhist....lots of beer!

Mrs. Roper Goes Kayaking

Sunset is at 6:30pm here and sunrise is at 6:30am. I got up with the sun today and I am watching it set now. When we arrived on the island yesterday it was raining and we were told it would likely rain for many weeks. So this morning, when it wasn't raining and the sun showed hopes of shining soon, I knew it was all my fault and my gong wish from yesterday was coming true. (Upon arriving on the island, guests hit the gong twice and make a wish)

The morning started off with an exploration around Naka Island via Sea Kayak. It was fun to kayak in the Andaman Sea and Erik and I both got a chuckle out of my days of rowing at Duquesne and my knowledge of the many ways to turn the kayak around (port to back, starboard to row vs chop method) We kayaked to the mangroves--swamp-like places, and saw snakes. Apparently, these snakes are only dangerous at night, as they sleep during the day. Needless to say, I was happy to be out in the sea, and out of the mangroves. More sun out in the sea, anyways.

After lunch, it was spa time. A detoxifying massage was most relaxing. I think Erik and I will be so pure and clean when we leave here, and then we'll go straight to hell with all the partying in Singapore. Maybe we should have hit Singapore first...

In keeping with tradition, I learned a new word today. "Kob Khun Kha" as I learned yesterday is "Thank you" when said by a female. When a male says this, it is "Kob Khun Krab". Today, we learned that when a she-man says thank you, they say, "Kob Khun Ha." Our kayak guide told us this and our butler, Aum, confirmed. And Aum even mentioned that he should use this form...hence proving our suspicions about him straight away.

Another word I learned today, "Jaak Jai" (Pronounced Jack Ji (long "i"). This means "from the heart" and is an underlying tenet at the spa here. I like the way it sounds and the meaning is cool too. I also learned from the wellness director, a cutie from East Africa, that the best dessert in Phuket is this concoction made with sticky rice and mangoes. It is pronounced: "cow meow mam jung." Ill try and find it tomorrow when we leave the island for a few hours to explore Phuket City. On a similar note, I tried a new fruit, "mangosteen"--it was yummy.

I ditched the "spa costume" today for a much more flattering outfit--a bikini and hot pink sun dress. The sun dress, according to Erik, looks like something from the 70's that Mrs. Roper from Three's Company would wear. Regardless, it has to be cuter than those spa costumes.

Spa Costumes--all day, everyday!

After landing in Phuket, the car service (a 5 series BMW) picked us up and drove us to the Marina. Side note: They drive on the "wrong side" of the road here. From the marina we took a speed boat ride to the private island of Naka, where the Six Senses Destination Spa is located. Naka means "big snake" but we were told there are no big snakes on the island. (Should I believe them?!) Our butler, Aum (pronounced like ummmm) ordered us immediately to change into our "spa costumes." They are ivory linen yoga-like gear. Of course the size small is EXTREMELY large on me...oh well. I don't have to worry about what to wear--this is what we wear the entire time we are here! They bring fresh spa costumes daily. Erik says he feels like he is in a cult! We had lunch at "Dining at the Point"--a nice restaurant that over looks the Andaman Sea--but we are on a private island so everything overlooks the sea! The restaurant is all vegetarian--Bronwen would love it!

Our villa, #53 (there are 65 here total) has a layout similar to the Six Senses Hideaway Bill and I stayed last year in Nha Trang, Vietnam. Everything--including showers, toilet, bath tub is outside.

The weather is overcast and it was raining when we arrived--but no longer. It's kindda like So Cal--cloudy until the sun burns the clouds away around 1pm. I spent the later part of the afternoon at the Spa. I took a class on Chi Nei Tsang--internal organ chi massage. It was cool to learn the underlying physiology and applications, and now I can use it at home! Then I experienced a traditional Thai Massage. This was my second time experiencing a "Thai Massage." First time was last year at Six Senses Hideaway in Vietnam. But since I am in Thailand now, I thought I should compare. It was amazing! And I learned my first words today: "Kob Khun Kha" (Thank You).

Health Inspectors in Toyko; Arriving in SIN

22 May 2009

Erik and I left LAX on 20 May 2009. As I was buying water to take the Dramamine, he jokingly said, "You should buy a condom." I thought he said "You should buy The Economist." So I replied, "I have three. From the past three weeks." This left Erik with a very perplexed look on his face.

We finally arrived in Singapore after a long flight from LAX with a stop in Tokyo. Guy sitting directly behind me was a barbarian! Coughing all the time without covering his mouth. I sprayed him with Zicam when he wasn't looking. The health inspectors came on the flight when we landed and "inspected" the plane and us and provided us with yellow slips of paper proving we "passed" the inspection. What we did to pass--I have no clue.

Chiangi Airport in Singapore is huge--with lots to do-just not at 1am when we landed. We tried killing 7 hours by drinking coffee and logging into the super-slow, Firefox 1.0 browser computers. That just made me more irritable. At this point--I just want a shower and my jet-lag massage! Needless to say, I am really looking forward to the next three days at Six Senses Spa Destinations where I will be pampered to the upmost with two spa treatments daily! Bring on the fun!