Saturday, September 22, 2012

Six border crossings later and we're in Mostar, Bosnia!


Because we can, we drive to Bosnia. What does this mean? Six times  we stop at check points. The unique shape of Croatia and the location of Mostar, Bosnia require one crosses the border twice over the 3 hours drive. Each check point has two stops—one Croatian; one Bosnian.  How do I best describe Mostar? A mini Grand Bazaar like Istanbul. Scaves and junk everywhere…

After a déjà vu moment when I craved currywurst in Cologne last week and ate in three days in a row (yes, I hate it now) I had to have the Cevapicici Pita at Savdran. It was great. I don’t hate it, yet. I’ll stop while I’m ahead.

After you take a few photos of the bridge (it was re-constructed after the 1990’s conflict) and you walk the old city “bazaar”—you’ve seen what you need to see.

Since it was on the way back to Dubrovnik, we decided to stop at Mali Ston (“mali” means “old”) for oysters. This little village right on the Croatian/Bosnian border is the oyster capital of the world. I had three oysters at Villa Koruna, a nice glass of local white wine, and was about to purchase local sea salt when a very drunk guy approached the table and yelled, “you’re an asshole!” at me. I’ve never been called that before. And when he proceeded to pull out a chair and sit at my table, I promptly walked to the front to get my bill. The manager was more concerned with showing me the award his restaurant won for oysters….in 1936!

Again, Mario’s recommendations on restaurants did not fail. Spaghetteria Toni—on the same street as Pizzeria Mirakul, Konoba Lanterna, and Taj Majal, was excellent. The Bucatini all’ Amatriciana was nice—especially paired with a nice local red.
The Bridge in Mostar

Discovering there is a whole other part of the Old City “higher” up beyond our apartment, we stopped in at Kopun for after dinner drinks.  The carob liquor, also known as “rogac” is my drink of choice.