Geysir and Gulfoss, Oh My!

If you’re looking for a great way to see the areas around Reykjavik, be smart and hire a guide. I was lucky enough to find Jon Frosti who owns Solstice Tours. Jon’s tour not only included stops at natural wonders like Geysir and Gullfoss, but also included interesting tidbits on Icelandic language, culture, people, and politics. I learned that the current mayor of Reykjavik was a former comedian. When Lady Gaga won Yoko Ono’s Peace Award recently, the mayor dressed like a Jedi (Lady Gaga, if you can believe it, dressed “normally.”)

The one thing I am bummed I didn't get to see is the ethereal magical lightshow of the aurora borealis (Northern Lights).They say the best time to visit Reykjavik is in the darkest winter months--for this reason. I guess I'll have to return!

Landing on the Moon...or Reykjavik

Reykjavik, Iceland. Seems a million miles away. And when I  landed at the airport (KEF), my first thoughts were, “This place is unworldly…. Am I still on Earth?”  I felt I could see forever. Likely, because I could. There are no trees.

Iceland is one of the most volcanically active places on Earth.  About ¼ of Iceland is an active volcano zone. The interesting terrain is proof. I didn't  see sand, or dirt, or grass…but I did see moss-covered black lava fields. (And guys playing golf in 35 degrees on said terrain.)

Atomium. Say that 5 times fast.

For an interesting view of Brussels, Anja and I took the subway to the Atomium. Built for the World Fair in 1958, the Atomium is the most popular tourist attraction and the symbol of Europe’s Capital.  The structure holds temporary exhibitions as well as permanent educational exhibitions.  We enjoyed a glass of wine and a great view from the Panoramic Restaurant.  (Disclaimer: Do not waste your time on Mini-Europe. This tourist trap is located adjacent to the Atomium. Just trust me here.)

F&B Time

If you can’t snag a reservation at one of the trendy pop up restaurants in Brussels, try Belga Queen. The foie gras with Belgian chocolate was to die for. I mean, really? Foie gras and chocolate? Together? Heaven.

And speaking of chocolate, you can’t visit Brussels without indulging in three things: Chocolate. Beer. Frittes. For a gluttonous day, walk the streets of the old town and sample the chocolates at the plethora of chocolate shoppes: Leonidas, Neuhas, Mary, and Galler are just a few of your options.  The Galler “Cat Tongues” are quite popular. 

Then go on a fritte adventure. Every local has their own idea of who has the “perfect frittes”—we asked.  I enjoyed Fritland…and be sure to ask for the secret sauce—Andalusian Sauce. It’s kinnda like the Animal Style at In N Out. It’s not on the menu, but most people seem to “know” about it. And be sure to wash it down with a favorite local beer, Jupiler.

Stay Away from the Ordinary in Brussels

Here I am! Brussels, Belgium—home to beers , frittes, waffles, and chocolates galore! During my visit I had the opportunity to stay at a super cool concept hotel called Hotel Bloom!  Everything at this property is in line with the theme  “Stay Away from the Ordinary.”  And, no two rooms are alike. No wonder TripAdvisor named Hotel Bloom! the “12^th trendiest hotel in the world” recently.

Walking into the four star Hotel Bloom! which is located beside the botanical gardens, I didn't feel like I was walking into a hotel. It felt more like an art museum.  The lobby walls are painted with street graffiti from local artists, big leather sofas inviting me to take a break, and two interesting “bubble chairs” are suspended from the ceiling... begging me to be a kid again.  And I fell in love with the latest Belgian techno music pouring out of the restaurant lounge, Smoods.

The building was a former Hyatt Hotel and then a Mercure.  Back in the day, Michael Jackson stayed here and requested a suite with a wooden floor—so he could practice his dance moves.  The hotel had a wooden floor installed. That former suite is now the fitness center—and the wooden floor remains.

When Hotel Bloom! began, it invited young artists from 22 EU countries, comprising 44 nationalities to submit proposals based on the theme “bloom” for a chance to have their work displayed in the hotel.  The artist were then invited, in groups of 20, to stay on property for one week. During that week, they designed their room with their concept in mind.  Each room is unique and has a photo of the artist and a brief description of the concept.  The room numbers outside each door also display a QR code you can scan for additional info on that room and artist.

Feeling like it's time to go home...

I couldn’t get out of Hotel Astoria fast enough. We decided to drive 30 minutes south to Budva….another seaside village. At this point, I’m tired. I'm cranky. I’ve been on the go for over three weeks. I just want to relax. I’m tired of sitting in a car, walking, sight –seeing.  I don’t want to take anymore photos. All these places look the same!

Upon arriving, we see it’s just another town like the previous 10 we’ve seen. We order a pizza and beers, wander around to a few churches.

Sveti Stefan-- an islet and former Adriatic playground to the rich and famous in the 1980s. It's now connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. Sveti Stefan is about 5km south of Budva, so even though I was exhausted, I wanted to drive over and see this playground. I didn't go onto the islet, but the views from the mainland were beautiful

View of Sveti Stefan, Montenegro

Then it's off to Tivat to catch the ferry back across the bay. (It’s 10 minutes shorter to take the ferry. It cost 4.5 euros—Montenegro is on the Euro and you don’t have the scenic drive—but we had the scenic drive on the way in!)

The one thing that has struck me is the wonderful scents of the liquid soap. They all smell so lovely! I actually look forward to washing my hands at each place we stop so I can smell the soap!

The further south we travel, the less English we hear…and the less English is understood.

Our finally stop in back in Croatia at the town of Cavat. Cavat is about 10 minutes from the airport and about 15 minutes from Dubrovnik. It’s a great place to stay for a 6am flight.  The hotel, Hotel Croatia (so creative!) is massive—reminds me of being on a cruise ship.

Dinner was another adventure as we choose the one restaurant in town where a group of senior citizens is on a tour. Bring.me.wine. now. The fish filet I ordered arrived to me in a heavy cream sauce (pretty sure I wouldn’t have ordered that) so I did my good deed of feeding the homeless. I fed the stray cat that hang around our table.

I’m tired. I want to sleep. Two shots of lozovaca should do the trick…

Good night Croatia. It’s been fun.

I H.A.T.E. Hotel Astoria!

Erik promised that if we got up at 7am to hike the 1350 steps up to St. John Fortress, we could drive to the beach at Perast after. Deal.

As recommended by Anita at the hotel (she’s the only good thing about Hotel Astoria!) we hopped a small fishing boat to Our Lady of the Rock Island.  Apparently, every July 22 local men row out to this artificial island to contribute a rock. Then it was a seaside lunch at Admiral Restaurant. The fresh sea bass in olive oil and garlic with a tomato salad (I’m obsessed with the tomatoes here) was the best meal I’ve had this trip. So pure, so fresh. The white local wine paired well and was refreshing as the temps reach above 90.

Then it was off to Pirate Beach, where I actually went into the sea!  It was ice cold. But I did it!  Check!

Local white wine enjoyed at Admiral in Perast

Upon arriving back at the hotel, I was informed, in the middle of the lobby, that I would be billed 1600 euros for the replacement of the glass door.  What?! Dear Hotel Astoria, did I mention that I’m a luxury travel writer? Did I mention my buddy travelling with me is an attorney?