Hanging laundry, cats, tourists…oh, and gelato

Old town Dubrovnik. It’s small! It’s very white. And in late September, it’s still packed with tourists—mostly from the many cruise ships that dock there daily. Some of the greatest photos and views can be seen by walking on the city walls. There are little nooks that offer great views of Lokrum Island, the city roofs (you can tell the old tiled roofs from the newer ones) If there are three things you can count on in Old Town it’s hanging laundry, cats, tourists...oh and gelato. Yes, that’s four things.

View of Lokrum Island from the City Walls

After walking around the city walls in 89+ degrees in gray sweatpants and a peach colored tank that Anja bought for me at the Zurich airport, I needed a beer…and was craving pizza. (I know, I don’t eat cheese. But I was craving cheeseless pizza) Wi-Fi is everywhere, but you need to ask for a password and Pizzeria Mirkul was no exception. This was the first and only time I was successfully able to order pizza with no cheese…on the first try.

The previous night we chatted up a local—an ex-footballer. When asked for recommendations, he suggested a bar called “Buza.” Apparently, it means “hole.”  It’s a bar (literally a long table), accessible through a narrow passage way outside the city walls, amongst the rocks. Mario—the waiter back at the castle (Hotel Kazbek is indeed a castle) told us to stay clear of this “Buza”. He informed us, it’s over-priced, and there are no toilets.  He was correct—on both accounts. But the scene was picturesque and straight out of a Hollywood movie.

Always hoping for a “local moment”—we stumbled upon a winery on the way back to the castle. Lekri Winery (a play on the winemakers last name: Krile) was just bringing in their white grapes for their first year of production. The wine-maker, who spoke nearly perfect English (side note—everyone here speaks great English. It’s uncanny) invited us in to his shop. Now, his shop was a garage-like atmosphere, with a bar, a few shelves of local liquors (yes, inclusing the carob liquor). In the back they were unloading a cart of whote grapes into a large tub. We sampled his wine, and became FaceBook Friends #28.  Apparently, his wine is quite similar to Grgh Hills wine. Zinfandel is a variety of red grape planted in over 10 percent of California vineyards. DNA fingerprinting revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski, and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in Puglia (the "heel" of Italy), where it was introduced in the 18th century. The grape found its way to the United States in the mid-19th century, and became known by variations of the name "Zinfandel", a name of uncertain origin.

My luggage arrived!  I am so excited to shower and put on fresh clothes!  I’m equally sure Erik and Anja are happy to not hear about my suitcase. Continuing with a “local evening”, we walked down the street to the marina to the Mario recommended, Orsan restaurant.  The fish dishes here are amazing, and paired with the local wines and an amazing setting…it was the perfect way to end the evening.  Every table is waterfront, and the quite marina is a pleasant escape from the craziness of the Old Town. 

Welcome to Dubrovnik airport—size of SCE

Welcome to Dubrovnik airport—size of SCE where the mis-adventures of Andy begin.  I rarely check luggage, and for good reason. Every time I do, it gets lost. So why would this time be any different. After spending the past week in Cologne, Germany, with all the wrong clothes (it was cold and rainy) here I stand in hot, steamy, sunny Dubrovnik with the only warm clothes I have. Lovely. I’m told “maybe” my bag will arrive on the same flight tomorrow? (Really? There is only ONE Austrian Airline flight a day from VIE to DBV?)

View from Hotel Kazbek

My first views of the Adriatic coastline, clear deep blue waters, splashing against a rocky shoreline, were breath-taking. Hotel Kazbek, located on the Lapad peninsula was a welcome. With no luggage to sort through, and with little confirmation (and I must admit little faith) I headed into town to do some shopping. Alas, while it was in the high 80’s sunny, and very summery weather, the only shops were Benetton and a few teenie bopper stores—that were fully stocked with the Fall trends. I need a sundress and flip flops…

Old Town didn’t prove much help either.  If I needed a sailors shirt, or postcards, or gelato—I would have been in heaven.  I needed a sundress, a tank, a skirt, flip flops. A purple tee short with lips that said “I “lips” Dubrovnik” was all I could find. Ugh. Beer cures everything… or at least I’m told. My first introduction to the local, Karlovacko was at the Arch Pub.

Back at the hotel later, the waiter, Mario, introduced me to carob liquor—and thus begins my fascination with this sweet liquor. He must have sensed my weakness for sweets—or perhaps just felt bad for me and my lost luggage, as he brought me carob cake.   Praying for luggage tomorrow.

Welcome to Cologne!

Cologne at night

For the next 8 days I'll call Excelsior Hotel Ernst home.  Its a "classic luxury" property. It actually reminds me a lot of the hotel we stayed in Bilboa last September, Hotel Lopez de Haro.

The Bridge of Locks

Crossing the Hohenzollern Bridge in Cologne this morning on my way to the trade fair, DMEXCO, I witnessed a photographic site: The Love Locks. Million of padlocks affixed to the fence that separates the rail bridge from the pedestrian walk way.  Love the concept: engrave, paint, etch your name + your lover's name on the lock, lock it to the fence, toss the key in the Rhine River below and you're detained for eternal love. Ummm...maybe I should try that!

Locks of Love in Cologne

Cologne. A culinary adventure?

Currywurst.

I must say the first few meals I've had here have been great.  Even the currywurst food truck in the DMEXCO parking lot was a culinary delight!  My first time eating currywurst and I can't wait to try it again.

Dinner at the one Michelin Star, Taku, was one of the best meals I've ever had...and it was Asian Fusion...whoa!

I was throughly impressed with the sleek wooden/very Japanese architecture.  As you enter the restaurant you walk along an aquamarine-colored piece of glass that resembles a river...and the steps down, resemble a waterfall. Very cool. The food was great, the drinks were great...until I saw the Fetzer Wine for 41 Euros on the "Preferred USA Red Wines" List...ugh. Really...that's THE "American Preferred Red"?

On my list still is the Two Star Michelin, La Vison.  And I was told by the concierge I must experience a BrewHouse....

The Land of Wooden Shoes

Nine hours from LAX to AMS doesn't seem that far when you're on a six hour cross country flight a few times  each month.  KLM, while I 'm sure has better service than Delta, served terrible food. Not that airline food is  much discussed topic, the food on KLM plain sucked.

Upon landing, the first thing I bought (shocker!) was a Milka candy bar...the really large one.

Lunch (it was 1:30pm local time/5:30am PT) was a egg salad with smoked salmon and cucumber sandwich....when in Rome....

An obnoxious American man wearing a Big Lebowski orders two White Russians. He just told me he was brilliant--like Thomas Edison. And that come winter solstice the coast will be gone. C.R.A.Z.Y.

Off to catch that "city hopper" to CNG...

Two Paws Down for Paws Up

After sending an email to the sales rep at Paws Up questioning the two charges on my credit card (there should have been no charges.) She responds with, "Oh, by the way, you will see a charge on your card once we ship your departure gift."

WHAT?

You are unthoughtful in your gift selection--choosing a large item that is illegal to carry-on a flight, and then you tell me you'll ship it, and then turn around and CHARGE ME to have it shipped?  Thank you, but you can keep your grilling fork.

I'm not paying for a gift I never asked for...geez. Is this how you treat your VIPs? If so, why would I bring my groups to your resort again?  Maybe I'm missing something? You may want to spend sometime with Katie from Concierge. She is the only person I met at your Resort who has any clue about the meaning of luxury hospitality...