Enzo's middle name may be Bab

Bab means "door or gate." There are tons of "babs" and they are often used as landmarks. "Go to Bab Doukkala and turn left." 

The word has kinnda of grown on me...and when given directions today, all I could say was "bab, bab, bab, bab"....the Moroccan guy in front of me just turned around and gave me the strangest look.

Happy Thanksgiving from Rabat!

While all my friends and family are cooking turkeys and feasting, I am driving from RAK to RBA! The highways were quite empty and surprisingly easy to navigate. For the first time in three days I didn't feel like the mouse. We made the trip in less than 3 hours and saw some cool scenery. Although it was a two lane (going each way) I swear drivers in Morocco think there is just one lane. They want to straddle the the lanes and take up both--not easy to pass this way!

At one gas stop we came upon a tour bus (ugh!) filled with US senior citizens nonetheless. Anja comes out of the bathroom, "There are trendy American women in there." I go in, and the "trendy" lady says to me, "we are from Arizona." I proceed to ask her where they have been, and then ask her what her favorite Moroccan city has been. She mentioned they were going to Casablanca and had already been to Rabat. But her favorite city has been "Morocco." Wow. I'll just keep speaking in Italian...

Being the "expert Moroccan travellers" now, we arrive in RBA, find a parking spot, refuse to pay 50 dh (the going rate is 20dh), and ward off all the men who "only want to be nice and show us to our riad."  Yeah, yeah yeah we know the drill. You only want to help us--and then you will demand euros! "We find it ourselves. Merci!"

I wonder what my Thanksgiving dinner will be....couscous? A nice lamb tangine? We shall see...

Does the Fontaine Moussaine really exist?

For two days we tried to find this infamous fountain Moussaine. We walked around in circles, afraid to ask anyone--you don't dare ask someone--they will expect you to pay them to give you directions. Then they will follow you, walk with you and not leave you alone.  (It's the culture, we are told.) Today, I finally said, enough. I asked a shopkeeper. He said "there." Right where we were standing. I guess "there used to be" a fountain. Ugh! 

Today felt like a good day to experience a Marrakech taxi ride. This trip is all about trying new experiences.  And the way people drive here, it appeared to be an adventure... Apparently, the cabs say they will take you to Point C....but cabs can't fit in those alleys, so they only take you to Point B and you must walk to Point C.  You, of course, only find this out once you've reached Point B. (i.e., Ben Yousseff Medersa)

The Ben Youssef was anything but how it was described ("great") We strolled through the important sites that Jacque, our riad host, suggested. The Jardin Majorelle-a gift to Marrakech from Yves Saint Laurent and the Bahia Palais-a grand palace with 150 rooms where some cool guy lived with his four wives and 24 concubines.

I had a wonderful experience at one of herb shops--herboriste. The herb guy spoke Italian!  So refreshing after depending on Anja to translate everything from French. 

I practiced my "negotiations" in the souks too. I'm still looking for the perfect "outfit"... 

Where are the pics?

For those of you who are wondering "where are the pics?! " Today--hopefully. 

For some reason, Enzo is not recognizing the RAW format images. I shot in RAW yesterday (as I usually) do, but recently installed a new version of  iPhoto 8 on Enzo... and for some reason he's not recognizing RAW format files... 

* Where is my CTO when I need him?! (yes, that is a bullet point)

Will shoot, reluctantly,  in JPG today and see if that helps...

I'm not paying you for directions

I learned a few things today. 

The driving is more crazy here in Marrakech than in Vietnam. Cars don't stay in lanes...not even sure they exist. The bikes and motor bikes are just as dangerous. Parking is a fine art.

Everyone wants to give us directions...and they want to be paid...in Euros. (Hello...we're in Morocco...dirhams, right?!)

Getting lost is unavoidable. There are no street signs. Everything looks the same.  Maps are impossible to follow.

The mint tea is really good and full of sugar. I think I had about 6 already. They are about 15 dh and apparently, the higher you pour the tea, the more impressive it is. Kinnda like "Cocktail"--Muslim style.

Speaking of "Cocktail" I haven't seen any alcohol. I may have to revert back to Erik's tactic on the island in Thailand. There was a can of beer on a table tonight--but after closer inspection...it was "sans alcohol."

Henna tattoos tingle.  (I wonder if they really last 30 days?)

The Djemaa el-fna is tourist paradise. It's the main Square in RAK and filled with drama (dentist pulling teeth and mystics burning frankincense). The name means "Assembly of the Dead" and was originally the site of public executions. Nice.

Welcome to Marrakech!

We chose "the day" to arrive in RAK. There were thousands of people waiting outside the airport doors. They were all dressed in traditional clothing as they awaited their friends and family arriving back from Mecca. It was crazy trying to navigate through all those people. I wished I had my camera handy...

I always thought that the pilgrimage to Mecca was by foot....but apparently, you can fly too!

A reminder

I was reminded quickly why I do not fly domestic carriers internationally....1. I really have to pay for that cheap red wine? 2. The movies are not on-demand? Welcome to United Economy Class. Maybe BNBH was right..I may be a little high maintenance when it comes to travel. That said, the direct flight from ZRH to LAX on Swiss Air is much anticipated:)