Playing Tourist in NYC. Part 2.

I'm back in NYC again for a good ten days…and this time my Mom is joining me for a long weekend. Keeping my promise to explore NYC in proper tourist fashion, we head to Williamsburg in Brooklyn and the Highline Park.

Like true New Yorkers we took the L Train to Bedford Ave and 7th Street.  We walked down past the famous Brooklyn Flea, over to the Smorgsboard and past the East River Park.  Loved seeing the Wythe Hotel--very cool that the hotel sign is made up of old hotel signs.  And the Brooklyn Winery is conveniently located across the street!

We also took advantage of the sunny (but cool) weather by walking the HighLine. Beautiful views of the cities…and you really feel like you're not in the city!

Great weekend exploring with Mom. Now if we can just find an amazing slice of pizza….

Baja Trophy Truck. Check.

One of the many things that make the Gateway Canyons property unique is the fact that its the only place in the world you can ride along in a trophy Baja truck with a professional driver. You can even taken a course to drive one yourself.

I had a blast riding along with professional driver Andrew Hendricks…well that is after the first few laps. It certainly was a once in a lifetime experience and I'm glad I figured out the Go Pro enough to get great footage from inside the truck and also outside mounted on the hood.

Helicopter Ride. Check.

My first visit to Gateway Canyons was a few months ago in early December--right after they were hit with a massive snowstorm that dumped a foot plus of snow on the grounds. GC looks a bit different under all that white fluffy stuff! Now that the snow has melted, the red rocks really pop and it's a quite, peaceful place.


My day started off with my very first (and pretty sure my last) helicopter ride. GC has it's own helicopter and pilots, and they were all too eager to get me up in the air to show off the gorgeous  scenery. The views from the copter were stunning--from what I could see. I spent much of the 20 minute ride fiddling with the GoPro and trying not to vomit. I declined the offer to venture out further into Arches National Park at Moab. I'm good. Get this girl back on the ground...

Playing Tourist in NYC.

I was born and raised in the Northeast and now live in Southern California for 8 years. I'm often asked if I miss it. Yeah. I miss the people, the lifestyle, and mostly I miss my family. Do I miss the change of seasons? Hell no. I'm in NYC about 50% of the time for work. Truly living the bi-costal lifestyle. I see as much seasonal change as I need. And I'm always excited to come back to where it's sunny and 75 and steps from the warm sand and cool salt breeze.

Although I'm in NYC frequently, I never really get to see or experience the touristy stuff. I stay in nice hotels down in SoHo (I avoid Times Square like the Plague). So this year I made a promise to myself to see/do at least one touristy thing each trip. First up--the Statue of Liberty!

Considering I'm pretty into my Sicilian heritage and my Grandparents came to this country via Ellis Island, I myself find it fascinating I'm just now visiting here.

It was a cold overcast Wednesday morning in early April and the crown and torch just recently re-opened after extensive damage due to Hurricane Sandy. Many of the rooms at the museum are currently still closed and under renovations. Still, very cool experience. I sat for a long while in one of the rooms just imagining what it was like for my Grandparents to arrive here and go through the processing…oh to have been a fly on the wall in the 1920's...

We drove four hours for Pea Soup.

My fist visit to Solvang was shortly after I moved to Southern California. One of my dear friends and I drove up for the day. I remember it being a super cute little town-and very unique. Something my parents may enjoy! So here I am again, back in Solvang some 7 years later--visiting some of my favorites like the Presidio Winery Tasting Room (It's the only wine club I've managed to keep) and trying some new spots like the famous Andersen's Pea Soup. So much fun!  Solvang is small enough to explore in an afternoon and my parent's absolutely loved it. It was helpful I had a few free nights at the Hotel Corque--right downtown.

Eat the fish meat. Carry the fish skin.

The food in Reykjavik, no surprise, is heavy on the seafood. Lamb stew—for those cold days-- is also a popular dish.  Be sure to check-out my Interview with Chef Fridgeir of Hotel Holt’s Gallery Restaurant. The Gallery Restaurant is said to be the best restaurant in Iceland—for over four decades now!

And speaking of  Hotel Holt I loved this intimate 41-room hotel. I thought I was in an art gallery—not a hotel. Hotel Holt and Gallery Restaurant feature the largest privately owned art collection in Iceland. The building is truly an Art Gallery within a hotel. Snorri, the hotel manager, is more than willing to take guests on a short tour of the collection when he is available at the hotel. 

If you’re looking for a unique gift—anything “fish skin” will do!  I had a custom made spotted wolfish clutch made by local artisan, Arndis Johannsdottir. To browse her work and order your own purse, or bracelet, or bowl, visit www.disa.is

One of the most WOW moments of my life

After a day of exploring the area, I was sooo ready for the BIG attraction: The Blue Lagoon. Mind you, it was 43 degrees outside and I was slipping into my bikini.

This extraordinary resort is set in the midst of a lava field, about 45 minutes outside of Reykjavik (close to KEF). Many people make the Blue Lagoon their first stop after landing, or their last hurrah before departing.  Not me! I chose to do neither and to spend the entire day relaxing, unrushed, at this geothermally-heated, mineral rich paradise. 

Upon check-in, I was given a bracelet that acted as my credit card for the day. Quite helpful at the swimup bar.  After a few walking laps around the lagoon, a few local beers, I slathered up my face with warm white silica mud--with promises of....well....something! (Glad I read the warnings about not getting that stuff in your hair--yikes! My hair feels like rubber....)

Normally, I'd shy away from the lunch buffet, but this one was magnificent. Complete with local sushi and other yummy dishes. 

My day ended with an in-lagoon massage. Unreal. A heavenly oil massage as I lay on large floating mat, lagoon water splashing over me, sun beating down on my face...I can't think of a more peaceful experience.

Geysir and Gulfoss, Oh My!

If you’re looking for a great way to see the areas around Reykjavik, be smart and hire a guide. I was lucky enough to find Jon Frosti who owns Solstice Tours. Jon’s tour not only included stops at natural wonders like Geysir and Gullfoss, but also included interesting tidbits on Icelandic language, culture, people, and politics. I learned that the current mayor of Reykjavik was a former comedian. When Lady Gaga won Yoko Ono’s Peace Award recently, the mayor dressed like a Jedi (Lady Gaga, if you can believe it, dressed “normally.”)

The one thing I am bummed I didn't get to see is the ethereal magical lightshow of the aurora borealis (Northern Lights).They say the best time to visit Reykjavik is in the darkest winter months--for this reason. I guess I'll have to return!

Landing on the Moon...or Reykjavik

Reykjavik, Iceland. Seems a million miles away. And when I  landed at the airport (KEF), my first thoughts were, “This place is unworldly…. Am I still on Earth?”  I felt I could see forever. Likely, because I could. There are no trees.

Iceland is one of the most volcanically active places on Earth.  About ¼ of Iceland is an active volcano zone. The interesting terrain is proof. I didn't  see sand, or dirt, or grass…but I did see moss-covered black lava fields. (And guys playing golf in 35 degrees on said terrain.)

Atomium. Say that 5 times fast.

For an interesting view of Brussels, Anja and I took the subway to the Atomium. Built for the World Fair in 1958, the Atomium is the most popular tourist attraction and the symbol of Europe’s Capital.  The structure holds temporary exhibitions as well as permanent educational exhibitions.  We enjoyed a glass of wine and a great view from the Panoramic Restaurant.  (Disclaimer: Do not waste your time on Mini-Europe. This tourist trap is located adjacent to the Atomium. Just trust me here.)

F&B Time

If you can’t snag a reservation at one of the trendy pop up restaurants in Brussels, try Belga Queen. The foie gras with Belgian chocolate was to die for. I mean, really? Foie gras and chocolate? Together? Heaven.

And speaking of chocolate, you can’t visit Brussels without indulging in three things: Chocolate. Beer. Frittes. For a gluttonous day, walk the streets of the old town and sample the chocolates at the plethora of chocolate shoppes: Leonidas, Neuhas, Mary, and Galler are just a few of your options.  The Galler “Cat Tongues” are quite popular. 

Then go on a fritte adventure. Every local has their own idea of who has the “perfect frittes”—we asked.  I enjoyed Fritland…and be sure to ask for the secret sauce—Andalusian Sauce. It’s kinnda like the Animal Style at In N Out. It’s not on the menu, but most people seem to “know” about it. And be sure to wash it down with a favorite local beer, Jupiler.

Stay Away from the Ordinary in Brussels

Here I am! Brussels, Belgium—home to beers , frittes, waffles, and chocolates galore! During my visit I had the opportunity to stay at a super cool concept hotel called Hotel Bloom!  Everything at this property is in line with the theme  “Stay Away from the Ordinary.”  And, no two rooms are alike. No wonder TripAdvisor named Hotel Bloom! the “12^th trendiest hotel in the world” recently.

Walking into the four star Hotel Bloom! which is located beside the botanical gardens, I didn't feel like I was walking into a hotel. It felt more like an art museum.  The lobby walls are painted with street graffiti from local artists, big leather sofas inviting me to take a break, and two interesting “bubble chairs” are suspended from the ceiling... begging me to be a kid again.  And I fell in love with the latest Belgian techno music pouring out of the restaurant lounge, Smoods.

The building was a former Hyatt Hotel and then a Mercure.  Back in the day, Michael Jackson stayed here and requested a suite with a wooden floor—so he could practice his dance moves.  The hotel had a wooden floor installed. That former suite is now the fitness center—and the wooden floor remains.

When Hotel Bloom! began, it invited young artists from 22 EU countries, comprising 44 nationalities to submit proposals based on the theme “bloom” for a chance to have their work displayed in the hotel.  The artist were then invited, in groups of 20, to stay on property for one week. During that week, they designed their room with their concept in mind.  Each room is unique and has a photo of the artist and a brief description of the concept.  The room numbers outside each door also display a QR code you can scan for additional info on that room and artist.

Feeling like it's time to go home...

I couldn’t get out of Hotel Astoria fast enough. We decided to drive 30 minutes south to Budva….another seaside village. At this point, I’m tired. I'm cranky. I’ve been on the go for over three weeks. I just want to relax. I’m tired of sitting in a car, walking, sight –seeing.  I don’t want to take anymore photos. All these places look the same!

Upon arriving, we see it’s just another town like the previous 10 we’ve seen. We order a pizza and beers, wander around to a few churches.

Sveti Stefan-- an islet and former Adriatic playground to the rich and famous in the 1980s. It's now connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. Sveti Stefan is about 5km south of Budva, so even though I was exhausted, I wanted to drive over and see this playground. I didn't go onto the islet, but the views from the mainland were beautiful

View of Sveti Stefan, Montenegro

Then it's off to Tivat to catch the ferry back across the bay. (It’s 10 minutes shorter to take the ferry. It cost 4.5 euros—Montenegro is on the Euro and you don’t have the scenic drive—but we had the scenic drive on the way in!)

The one thing that has struck me is the wonderful scents of the liquid soap. They all smell so lovely! I actually look forward to washing my hands at each place we stop so I can smell the soap!

The further south we travel, the less English we hear…and the less English is understood.

Our finally stop in back in Croatia at the town of Cavat. Cavat is about 10 minutes from the airport and about 15 minutes from Dubrovnik. It’s a great place to stay for a 6am flight.  The hotel, Hotel Croatia (so creative!) is massive—reminds me of being on a cruise ship.

Dinner was another adventure as we choose the one restaurant in town where a group of senior citizens is on a tour. Bring.me.wine. now. The fish filet I ordered arrived to me in a heavy cream sauce (pretty sure I wouldn’t have ordered that) so I did my good deed of feeding the homeless. I fed the stray cat that hang around our table.

I’m tired. I want to sleep. Two shots of lozovaca should do the trick…

Good night Croatia. It’s been fun.

I H.A.T.E. Hotel Astoria!

Erik promised that if we got up at 7am to hike the 1350 steps up to St. John Fortress, we could drive to the beach at Perast after. Deal.

As recommended by Anita at the hotel (she’s the only good thing about Hotel Astoria!) we hopped a small fishing boat to Our Lady of the Rock Island.  Apparently, every July 22 local men row out to this artificial island to contribute a rock. Then it was a seaside lunch at Admiral Restaurant. The fresh sea bass in olive oil and garlic with a tomato salad (I’m obsessed with the tomatoes here) was the best meal I’ve had this trip. So pure, so fresh. The white local wine paired well and was refreshing as the temps reach above 90.

Then it was off to Pirate Beach, where I actually went into the sea!  It was ice cold. But I did it!  Check!

Local white wine enjoyed at Admiral in Perast

Upon arriving back at the hotel, I was informed, in the middle of the lobby, that I would be billed 1600 euros for the replacement of the glass door.  What?! Dear Hotel Astoria, did I mention that I’m a luxury travel writer? Did I mention my buddy travelling with me is an attorney? 

Bay of Kotor--not what's it's cracked up to be

Three countries on this trip will not suffice. Departing from Dubrovnik, we estimate it will take an hour to get to Kotor, Montenegro. We didn’t anticipate the dirt and gravel roads.  The drive indeed was interesting. The drive around the bay was again, breath-taking. Clear waters, so blue. Gorgeous coastline.

Upon arriving in Kotor, I could tell I would be underwhelmed. Massive cruise ships were docked in the harbor. More toursits. Hotel Astoria, our four star home (I was reminded by the front desk staff at least three times during check-in that they were four star) for the next two nights, seemed like a nice place. (Can you sense some foreshadowing?)

Upon checking-in, I ran up to the room to use the bathroom. As I sit down on the toilet, I carefully close the bathroom door—it’s glass. Said glass crashes down on top of me…raining over me like a hail storm. (Yes, I’m sitting on the toilet-peeing)

Really? Lost luggage, Bike accident, and now glass falling on me? I buy a haulite necklace. While this stone is supposed to be for Libras—it is also used to calm people. I need to be calmed at this point. I wear it immediately.

Glass door at Hotel Astoria that fell on me!

After exploring the old city—again tiny enough to exlpor in an afternoon, we decide to have drinks on the square outside the hotel. The menu included “fried foie gras.”  I’ve never had FRIED foie gras, and since foie gras is currently banned in California, I don’t think I’ll have an opportunity to try it soon…so I order it. So rich. So fried. So sick.

Six border crossings later and we're in Mostar, Bosnia!

Because we can, we drive to Bosnia. What does this mean? Six times  we stop at check points. The unique shape of Croatia and the location of Mostar, Bosnia require one crosses the border twice over the 3 hours drive. Each check point has two stops—one Croatian; one Bosnian.  How do I best describe Mostar? A mini Grand Bazaar like Istanbul. Scaves and junk everywhere…

After a déjà vu moment when I craved currywurst in Cologne last week and ate in three days in a row (yes, I hate it now) I had to have the Cevapicici Pita at Savdran. It was great. I don’t hate it, yet. I’ll stop while I’m ahead.

After you take a few photos of the bridge (it was re-constructed after the 1990’s conflict) and you walk the old city “bazaar”—you’ve seen what you need to see.

Since it was on the way back to Dubrovnik, we decided to stop at Mali Ston (“mali” means “old”) for oysters. This little village right on the Croatian/Bosnian border is the oyster capital of the world. I had three oysters at Villa Koruna, a nice glass of local white wine, and was about to purchase local sea salt when a very drunk guy approached the table and yelled, “you’re an asshole!” at me. I’ve never been called that before. And when he proceeded to pull out a chair and sit at my table, I promptly walked to the front to get my bill. The manager was more concerned with showing me the award his restaurant won for oysters….in 1936!

Again, Mario’s recommendations on restaurants did not fail. Spaghetteria Toni—on the same street as Pizzeria Mirakul, Konoba Lanterna, and Taj Majal, was excellent. The Bucatini all’ Amatriciana was nice—especially paired with a nice local red.

The Bridge in Mostar

Discovering there is a whole other part of the Old City “higher” up beyond our apartment, we stopped in at Kopun for after dinner drinks.  The carob liquor, also known as “rogac” is my drink of choice.

A three island tour...

A three hour tour. A three hour tour.  Three island cruise to Elaphiti Islands: Kolocep, Sipan, and Lopud. The going rate is 290 kn….but Anja and I who are quite experienced from negotiating in Morocco secured the tour for 250 kn. Score.

I hate tours. I think they are for old people, and you see and eat what they want you to see and eat. I’ll choose my own pellets, thank you.

No surprise, the 1 hour we were promised on the first island was cut to 40 minutes. The second island was cut from 90 minutes to 60.  And the last island from 3 hours to 2.5 hours. The “fish picnic” of grilled mackerel was good, I must admit.

View from Kolocep 

All these island are starting to look the same! My first day, I was in awe of the gorgeous coastline. But now, I have to be honest, it’s all beautiful, and it all looks the same. I don’t need to take any more photos!

Unfortunately, while it was sunny today—it was very windy. I was determined to use my “Dubrovnik beach towel”—so cheap and thin and touristy!  So for an hour we took in some beach time on Lopud Island. I have yet to get in the sea!

I finally ate Cevapcici at Taj Majal. The thing about dining in Dubrovnik is that your waiter dosen’t come back to check on you. If you need something, you need to flag them down. And forget about them bringing the check. You’ll sit there all night (really) until you find them and ask for it.

I wanted to sleep well. The espresso before bed last night wasn’t my most brilliant decision. So, after dinner drinks at Café Kase were sounding good. The domestic grape brandy called “lozovaca” is now one of my favs…Can I have another? “of course.” The response is always “of course.”

Dubrovnik--all in a day!

View of Old Town and Lokrum Island from the Cable Car

Mario saw my legs at breakfast (breakfast-which is included at Hotel Kazbek-- consists of cold cuts and cheeses and bread) and was concerned. He had just the cure—“rub olive oil on your legs today-swim in the sea tomorrow.” I love the natural approach they take to medicine here. Five minutes later, he’s knocking on my room door with a nice bottle of olive oil.

After staying the first three night of Lapad Penisula, we decided to experience the craziness of Old Town—in a luxury apartment in the heart of it all.  Amoret Apartments, nestled right around the corner from our beloved Arch Pub, and right outside the Dubrovnik Cathedral was a prime location.  (You can see the skull. Legs, arms, and throat of St. Blaise here.  Photos are forbidden. Rules are meant to be broken.)

For 87 Kuna you can take the cable car high above the Old City for amazing views.
Well worth the wait and the kunas. No Andy mishaps today called for a celebration. Beers in bathtubs at Art Café!  This eclectic café has retro fitted claw footbath tubs as seating.

Have I mentioned there are tourists and gelato everywhere?

The most advertised restaurant in the Old Town is Taj Majal. It is not as the name suggests, and Indian restaurant. It’s Bosnian. Is happens to be on the same street as our Pizza Mirakul. The wait is 50 minutes. We’re not waiting 50 minutes. I pull the journeyPod car (literally whip out my biz card—they don’t care.) We make a reservation for tomorrow night and take two steps to the left to Konoba Lanterna. “Konoba” is the word for restaurant.  When my meal arrives, Igor (our very dumb waiter) hands me a pork kebob platter. So sad. I want cevapcici! Not sure how the mix-up occurred….but the local wine helped my sadness.

After dinner we wandered over to the waterfront to investigate possible island tours for tomorrow. We spoke with a wheelin’ and dealin’ guy named Matti. I felt like he was trying to sell us a used Oldsmobile. We negotiated a price for a three island tour, was ensured there would be no Japanese (sorry Japanese friends), and only 16 people total. And then somehow, an hour later, we are negotiating a rental car with him. It seems his friend has a company and can give good price….shocker.  So cruise sales guy sell rental cars on the side. Nice. Now—off to find a beach towel…

My leg modeling career is over

Mjlet is an island about 90 minutes boat ride away. It’s known for the two salt water lakes that are on the island, and also it is a National Park. I will remember Mjlet as the place I rode my mountain bike off a cliff and was given Slovenia Liquor to shut me up.  The boat, Ana Nona, departed the Harbour at 9:15am. And for 108 kn roundtrip (that’s about $20) we headed for what we thought would be a relaxing day exploring the national park island.

The bike. My legs. Ouch.

We arrived. We rented bikes for 60kn each. Mine had a basket. As you know, I’m an experienced biker. I ride my hot pink and lime green beach cruiser nearly daily. I know bikes.  (note to self…bring lots of kuna when you visit Mjlet—the entrance is 90kn and they don’t tell you that before you leave the mainland!) I should probably just stick to my beach cruiser. In an attempt to find a quiet place to take a dip in the salt water lakes, we stumbled upon a private road. Next thing I know, I’m sliding down a small cliff, bike on top of me, as I feel my leg flesh tearing away.  Bloody and looking zombie-like, the inn keepers of Villa Jezero come to my rescue with a first aid kit and to cure my tears, Slovenia Grappa. They spoke a little English, a little German, a little Italian. The incident was well communicated. Apparently, there were doctors staying at their Inn, but they were still asleep at 1pm, and said if I could wiggle my toes, all was good. Nice. Toes are wiggling, blood is a flowing…all over me. 

I arrive back to the castle, covered in blood. I just want a shower and a good meal, and some nice local wine. Since Mario hasn’t failed me yet, we try his suggestion of Blidinje. The rooftop open dining area overlooks the marina, and is a few steps from the castle. Perfect.  The grilled meat and vegetable platter hit the spot. BBQ meats and grilled veggies—esp eggplant and zucchini are quote popular here. The one meat I was surprised not to see was lamb. I really wanted lamb.  

Hanging laundry, cats, tourists…oh, and gelato

Old town Dubrovnik. It’s small! It’s very white. And in late September, it’s still packed with tourists—mostly from the many cruise ships that dock there daily. Some of the greatest photos and views can be seen by walking on the city walls. There are little nooks that offer great views of Lokrum Island, the city roofs (you can tell the old tiled roofs from the newer ones) If there are three things you can count on in Old Town it’s hanging laundry, cats, tourists...oh and gelato. Yes, that’s four things.

View of Lokrum Island from the City Walls

After walking around the city walls in 89+ degrees in gray sweatpants and a peach colored tank that Anja bought for me at the Zurich airport, I needed a beer…and was craving pizza. (I know, I don’t eat cheese. But I was craving cheeseless pizza) Wi-Fi is everywhere, but you need to ask for a password and Pizzeria Mirkul was no exception. This was the first and only time I was successfully able to order pizza with no cheese…on the first try.

The previous night we chatted up a local—an ex-footballer. When asked for recommendations, he suggested a bar called “Buza.” Apparently, it means “hole.”  It’s a bar (literally a long table), accessible through a narrow passage way outside the city walls, amongst the rocks. Mario—the waiter back at the castle (Hotel Kazbek is indeed a castle) told us to stay clear of this “Buza”. He informed us, it’s over-priced, and there are no toilets.  He was correct—on both accounts. But the scene was picturesque and straight out of a Hollywood movie.

Always hoping for a “local moment”—we stumbled upon a winery on the way back to the castle. Lekri Winery (a play on the winemakers last name: Krile) was just bringing in their white grapes for their first year of production. The wine-maker, who spoke nearly perfect English (side note—everyone here speaks great English. It’s uncanny) invited us in to his shop. Now, his shop was a garage-like atmosphere, with a bar, a few shelves of local liquors (yes, inclusing the carob liquor). In the back they were unloading a cart of whote grapes into a large tub. We sampled his wine, and became FaceBook Friends #28.  Apparently, his wine is quite similar to Grgh Hills wine. Zinfandel is a variety of red grape planted in over 10 percent of California vineyards. DNA fingerprinting revealed that it is genetically equivalent to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski, and also the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in Puglia (the "heel" of Italy), where it was introduced in the 18th century. The grape found its way to the United States in the mid-19th century, and became known by variations of the name "Zinfandel", a name of uncertain origin.

My luggage arrived!  I am so excited to shower and put on fresh clothes!  I’m equally sure Erik and Anja are happy to not hear about my suitcase. Continuing with a “local evening”, we walked down the street to the marina to the Mario recommended, Orsan restaurant.  The fish dishes here are amazing, and paired with the local wines and an amazing setting…it was the perfect way to end the evening.  Every table is waterfront, and the quite marina is a pleasant escape from the craziness of the Old Town.